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Review by Don Fowler

When I discovered that chef/owner Paul Shire had recreated his famous meatloaf that drew me to his original DownCity Diner, I knew I had to visit his new venture, The Roi, at 150 Chestnut St. in the heart of Providence’s Knowledge District.

The Roi sits in the midst of renovated old manufacturing buildings in what was the Jewelry District, neatly tucked in the basement, which has been turned into a warm, cozy, casual bar and restaurant.

There are only three entree items on the luncheon menu, served Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. I ordered the meatloaf dinner ($12.95), and it was as good as I remembered it. Shire makes his meatloaf with rolled oats, giving it a moist and soft texture, enhanced by a Jack Daniels gravy, served over fresh mashed potatoes and topped with thin onion rings. It doesn’t get any better than this. Joyce chose the Maryland crab cakes ($14.95), two cakes filled with crabmeat and cooked to perfection, served with fresh veggies and sweet potato fries. The fries are hand cut and large, giving you the full taste of the potato. The third item is a hummus plate, which also looked delicious.

There are sandwiches galore on the menu, including an open face meatloaf sandwich ($7.95), which is enough for the biggest appetite. The meatloaf is served for dinner, and I can’t imagine a larger portion ($15.95). The dinner menu is extensive, including rack of pork, steak, chicken and fish and ranging in price from $15.95 to $23.95.

The Roi is one of the few venues in town that serves up some cool jazz with its food and beverages. Whether it is lunch, dinner or a late evening snack, you can order soup, salad, burgers, pizza and other items. Try their polenta.

The Roi is one of a number of good restaurants located only a few minutes from Edgewood and Governor Francis, with on-street parking and easy access without going into the center of the city. A short drive down Allens Ave. to Point St., and then 150 Chestnut St. avoids Route 95. If you are on the highway, take the Point St. Exit 20, turn right on Point and left on Chestnut. Other restaurants in the immediate area include Olga’s Cup and Saucer, Blount’s New Clam Shack, Rick’s Roadhouse and CAV.

The Roi is open Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m., Friday until 2 a.m., Saturday 4 p.m. to 2 a.m., and Sunday 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. For reservations or more information call 272-2161. And try the meatloaf.

This post was found on adventuresinridining.com.  Posted by Stacey Place

It’s not often that I find myself being the youngest person in a restaurant anymore. Getting a little closer to 40 than I’d like to admit, it’s rare that I look around and can’t find anyone younger than me. Last Saturday night, I was out in Providence at a fairly new restaurant and was stunned to find myself being the youngest diner in the room. I’d found the place where Baby Boomers hang out on Saturday nights.

I chose the ROI based on the fact that their Chef is Paul Shire. Chef Shire was part owner and the original chef of Downcity, but I knew his work more from when he owned and cooked at Oak on the East Side of Providence. I lived on the East Side in those years and spent many nights and Sunday brunches enjoying this neighborhood gem. Hearing the news that Chef Shire was back, I knew I wanted to check out his new place.

The ROI is located on Chestnut Street in what I still call the Jewelry District, but the city now refers to this area as the Knowledge District. I was kind of surprised the Baby Boomers all found their way to this spot because to me it seemed off-the-beaten path. The restaurant was empty when we arrived (yes, it was before 6:00, but I was really hungry), but the hostess told us most tables were already reserved, so we took a seat at the sleek bar. The restaurant is dark because it’s located in a basement, but the darkness matches its cool interior. We were surprised to find both tv sets in the bar tuned into TBS reruns of The Family Guy. Nobody was watching tv, but why would they want to watch that? The music didn’t befit its atmosphere either. The soundtrack was depressing to me – James Taylor, Air Supply and Elton John, but it did fit the age of the crowd.

The bartender was really good and especially patient with one patron who kept insisting on inventing her own drink and explaining how the last drink she invented was later put on the menu. She was getting on our nerves but didn’t rattle him in the slightest. The cocktail list seemed overpriced at $12.95, but my French 75 Part Deux (Plymouth gin, lemon juice and Champagne with a hint of thyme) was large and flavorful. At $12.95, I didn’t order a second, however. The wine list, in contrast, was reasonable but not extensive.

The menu at the ROI includes a little bit of everything and something for everyone. It varied from sandwiches to salads, pizzas to pasta, and salmon to filet. We started out with an appetizer of Polenta Fries. The thickly cut sticks of creamy polenta were fried to a golden crisp and then dabbed with marinara sauce and gorgonzola cheese. As was the case with much of what we ate at the ROI, we wished there was just a tad bit more sauce and cheese to complement the fries. We managed to eat every bite and sop up every last bit of sauce.

Polenta Fries

For dinner, I ordered the Herb de Provence Salmon. The salmon was cooked crispy on the outside, and it was moist and flaky on the inside. The salmon was topped with a citrus butter which was tasty but so tasty I longed for more. On the side, there was a generous portion of creamy mushroom risotto and a helping of garlic green beans with roasted red peppers. The serving was more than generous for $18.95 – I even had some to bring home for lunch the next day.

Herb de Provence Salmon

One of my favorite meals at Oak was the crab cakes with sweet potato fries, and Chef Shire brought this dish along with him to the ROI. Bridget ordered this for her dinner and was glad she did. The crab cakes were as good as she remembered, and the sweet potato fries were even better than she remembered. The red pepper aioli on the crab cakes was super tasty but again it left her longing for more.

Crab Cakes with Sweet Potato Fries

We were too full for dessert, but at $5.95, the desserts are some of the biggest bargains in Providence. In hindsight, I should have ordered a piece of Turtle Cheesecake to go . . .

We had a nice night out at The ROI, mostly because we enjoyed the attentive, friendly service from the bartender and the excellent food. The food, the music and the service were comfortable and safe, and I can see why this would be a place to eat before taking in a show at PPAC. In a world filled will 12 course tasting menus, molecular gastronomy and communal dining tables, sometimes we all long for the taste of comfort, and the ROI is comfort all around.

June 27, 2012 10:26 am
By Gail Ciampa

One of the secrets to his popular meatloaf is the low cooking temperature, says Paul Shire, chef and owner of The Roi.
THE PROVIDENCE JOURNAL / SANDOR BODO

Kylie Jane Roberts wrote: “A friend suggested I e-mail you after raving for weeks about a dish I had at The Roi in Providence’s Jewelry District. The chef’s “famous” meatloaf is on the menu in two incarnations: as an entree served with mashed and vegetables, and as an open-face sandwich. Both are equally delicious.

“I have spent years trying to recreate my grandfather’s meatloaf. He passed unexpectedly in 2005 and, until I ate at Paul Shire’s new restaurant, I haven’t been able to savor what used to be my favorite meal. My grandfather kept his recipe, as most great chefs do, in his head and probably tweaked each batch a little differently. I still regret never getting the chance don an apron and cook with my grandfather, learning the recipe through experience and practice.

“Eating the Roi’s meatloaf brought back so many wonderful memories and emotions. I’m skeptical that the chef would share his recipe, with the dish being the house specialty — but I heard that it’s possible.
“I’d like to learn the recipe, so that one day I can pass it down to my grandchildren the way I’m sure my grandfather intended to pass it down to his. Thank you!”

Let’s start at the beginning.

Chef Paul Shire

This meatloaf is famous because it was a hit when chef Paul Shire started making it back in 1990 when he opened Downcity Diner in Providence. In addition to being the favorite of many, you could say it was the place’s signature dish.

Fast forward to Shire’s new restaurant, The Roi at 150 Chestnut St. . How could he not have it on the menu when memories are there?

Shire was happy to share his recipe and his secret: he bakes it at 300 degrees. When he bakes it at 350 degrees, it splits. He just won’t have that. The second secret is Shire makes it with quick oats instead of bread crumbs.

So you can enjoy at the restaurant, as an entrée or an open-faced sandwich. And you could do that while enjoying the music as The Roi is an entertainment venue, too. Or you can make the meatloaf at home — as long as you are willing to wait the hour it takes to cook. Learn more at Theroiprov.com.

Paul Shire’s Famous Meatloaf

• 31/2 pounds ground sirloin
• 2 cups quick cooking oats
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 41/2 ounces tomato juice
• 1 diced onion
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• Jack Daniel’s Gravy (see below)

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Mix well. Form into a loaf in a baking pan. Bake in a preheated 300-degree oven for one hour. Yes, that is a low 300 degrees and a long one hour. Serve slices drizzled with Jack Daniel’s Gravy.

Jack Daniel’s Gravy

• 2 shallots, diced
• 1 teaspoon olive oil
• 1/2 cup Jack Daniel’s
• 3 cups beef stock
• 1 teaspoon chopped thyme leaves
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch

In a saucepan over medium-high heat, sweat the shallots in the oil until translucent. Add the Jack Daniel’s, and reduce until most of the liquid has evaporated. Add the beef stock and thyme, and reduce by half. In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 2 teaspoons cold water and stir until you make a smooth paste called a slurry. Whisk in the slurry a little at a time until the gravy thickens. Variation: You can also use your favorite canned gravy with an added shot of Jack Daniel’s.

Questions on the recipe? Call the Roi at (401) 272-2161.

We’re cooking Polenta Fries with Gorgonzola cheese and house marinara with Paul Shire from The ROI.

Ingredients:
Cornmeal
Stock
Butter
Parmesan Cheese
Cream
Gorgonzola
Marinara
Garlic
Salt
Pepper

Steps:

1. Wisk cornmeal into stock and creamy butter and cheese
2. Cool on sheet and cut
3. Fry strips in oil top with cheese
4. Bake
5. Add marinara

Special thanks to The Rhode Show.

Review of The ROI by Bill Rodriguez

Anyone who liked DownCity Diner when Paul Shire opened it in 1990 or Oak when the chef was in charge there will love his newest restaurant, the ROI. It’s in the low-key Jewelry District — oops, we’re supposed to think of it as the Knowledge District these days — and it fits well in that laidback neighborhood.

Shire’s culinary heritage ranges from regal — his great-grandfather was chef to the king of Egypt — to regal-er — his aunt Lydia Shire is Boston restaurant royalty (Biba, Locke-Ober, Scampo). Until recently he headed the kitchen at Andreas in Providence.

The ROI looks cozy enough to trigger a yen for comfort food. The basement space is inviting, maintaining the low-light intimacy of the former occupant, the Century Lounge, the decor warm ambers and browns. The restaurant is billing itself as a “Food & Music” supper club, so there’s a small stage, a nightclub-quality sound system, and frequently scheduled performances.

Since roi means king in French, Shire hasn’t passed up the opportunity to joke around that the food and service here is fit for such, and also that he’s aware it also stands for “return on investment.” (Speaking of the latter, this ROI is pronounced “roy,” as in Paul Roidoulis, Shire’s financial backer in this venture.)

The food here is good, but any crown-chapeaued tourists venturing down the stairs would be doing so to learn how we ordinary folk live. All half-dozen burgers and half of the dozen sandwiches offered at lunch are on the dinner menu, indicating that the expected clientele is not your quail and truffle crowd. And the prices are kept down — the top splurge is the $24 filet mignon.

If you’re thinking of checking out the place at lunchtime, there are a couple of representative entrées that also are on the dinner menu: Maryland crab cakes ($14.95) and Shire’s signature all-beef meatloaf ($12.95) with Jack Daniel’s gravy, each three bucks more in the evening. Available larger as an entrée at lunch ($12.95) as well as an appetizer at dinner ($10.95), there’s also a roasted garlic and chives hummus platter.

We were there for dinner, and that appetizer list presented several temptations to me: a pulled pork and Monterey Jack quesadilla ($10.95); pecan-crusted chicken tenders ($9.95) with a blackberry glaze; and Gorgonzola-topped polenta fries ($8.95), sliced thick, fried in olive oil, with marinara sauce for dipping. But we wanted to see what they did with pizza, so we tried one of those. For us carnivores, there’s either grilled chicken or sausage — not offering a choice of oh-so popular pepperoni counts as a touching health measure.

The veggie version ($12.95) had such an appealing collection of ingredients that I was glad to go with that. Not only spinach but organic spinach, not only tomatoes but fine-ripened tomatoes, caramelized onions, mushrooms, olives, and four cheeses over tomato sauce. It was wonderful, the toppings not only varied but also bountiful. Who needs nitrates and spicy animal parts?

There are only seven main dishes on the dinner menu, but our server proposed three or four additional options, including cod and mussels over spinach and fish and chips. We limited ourselves to the menu, so that you, dear reader, would be able to partake and not just wistfully crave.

And crave you should, since both our dishes were excellent. My Southwestern-spiced pork chops ($15.95) were delicious, thin like cutlets but flavorful. Speaking of flavor, their bed of rice and black beans was rich with chicken broth, an addition I intend to follow at home. Johnnie’s “all-natural” chicken cutlet ($15.95) was moist and tangy in its lemon and wine sauce, accompanied by plenty of capers, intense calamata olives, artichoke hearts, and roasted peppers. Wonderful.

Wonderful The ROI's Sautéed-Chicken-Cutlet

As for desserts ($5.95), they are not made there — Wayland Bakery provides them — and we did not pick a winner. The fruit in the bananas foster bread pudding was unaccountably unappetizing, hard instead of sauteed to softness; we had to pick them out and push them aside. Maybe you’ll have a better time with the apple pie crisp, our server’s favorite.

(TV Diner) – New eateries are popping up left and right in Rhode Island, but at the top of everyone’s list is The ROI, a new supper club in the capital city’s Jewelry District.

The chef is Paul Shire, whose aunt happens to be Boston restaurant royalty, none other than Lydia Shire. This is Paul’s latest venture in Providence, where he has been pleasing palates for more than 20 years.

The ROI is a subterranean restaurant with a dark and sexy ambiance. Red pendant lighting and amber sconces add a warm glow to the intimate dining area. As a 21st-century supper club, The ROI has a state-of-the-art sound system and a small stage for live music.

ROI is the French word for king, and the food here is fit for a king, starting with the Tuscan calamari tossed with garlic, peppers and olives, and the Mediterranean Hummus Platter, with certainly enough roasted garlic hummus, feta and kalamata olives for a small crowd.

The burgers are just awesome, topped with everything from smoked bacon to Gorgonzola cheese. We thoroughly enjoyed our all-American burger smothered with sautéed onions and good old American cheese.

From the higher end of the global menu, we recommend the Maryland Crab Cakes, loaded with a lot of lump crabmeat and just a few breadcrumbs. What makes it sing? The finely diced peppers, a dash of lemon, and the chef’s secret seasonings.

On the side were some of the best sweet potato fries we’ve ever had, served with a red pepper aioli, which made for great dipping.

Make sure you don’t skip dessert. The moist and spongy Chocolate Cake served with vanilla ice cream is another dish that could feed a small crowd, and the Cinnamon Maple Bread Pudding was pure comfort food. This was a warm and sweet coffee cake that reminded us of French toast with a walnut topping.

The service is on point and super friendly. Don’t be surprised if the chef pops out to make sure everything is to your liking. Later in the evening, live music takes center stage at The ROI – everything from Brazilian jazz to soft rock, which makes for a perfect night out. For honest, affordable food and generous portions in sleek surroundings, and then cool music to boot, we feel The ROI deserves the Platinum Plate.

Appetizers range from $5 to $13. Entrees run from $10 to $24. Desserts are $6 each.

The ROI is located at 150 Chestnut St. in Providence, R.I. It is open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and Tuesday through Sunday for dinner from 4:30 to 10 p.m. There’s street parking in the area. For more information, call 401-272-2161, or visit www.theroiprov.com.

Wednesday, June 13, 2012
Sean DeBobes, GoLocalProv Dining Critic

Come for the location, stay for the meatloaf: Paul Shire's signature comfort food still has it going on. Photo: The ROI.

Rhode Islanders have sorely missed Paul Shire, co-founder of Providence’s beloved DownCity Diner. When Sean DeBobes got wind that Shire was back with The ROI, his new restaurant/club in the city’s Knowledge District, he had to check in. Here are the 5 things he wants you to know.

One. Jewelry…Knowledge…Easy Parking District.

Whatever you like to call it, The Jewelry district is becoming a place to be these days. Condos, medical buildings and business incubators are filling in long-abandoned buildings, the inhabitants of which are clamoring for a place to eat. The ROI hopes to attract some of this crowd with its new versatile space that works as a lounge for an after-work drink or a place for a late dinner and a show. With easy street parking and easy (and now ‘unabridged’) access to the theatres I think more restaurants will be joining The ROI sooner rather than later.

Two. High Marks at the Bar.

Setting the pace for what may be a new culinary wave in the opened up Knowledge District. Photo: The ROI.

I was able to try two cocktails that I’d love to try again. The Pear Martini is a must-try for lovers of that class. The ROI keeps it simple and refined—Grey Goose la poire is shaken with a hint of St. Germaine and fresh lemon juice. The result, a sweet and tart blend with a very forward Anjou flavor. Also impressive was The West Side Girl, a blend of house-infused lavender vodka with Cointreau, lemon and a bit of simple syrup. I could have used a little more lavender, but the floral notes were excellent.

Three. Polenta Fries.

I am still wondering why the polenta fry hasn’t hit more menus. Joining Loie Fullers and La Laiterie, The ROI is one of but a few restaurants in town that have unlocked this magnificent treat. The ROI sets itself apart from the rest by serving an oversized piece of polenta. Fried in extra virgin olive oil and topped with marinara sauce, this dish really starts to sing when you have a bite with the flavorful and bold gorgonzola served alongside. If the gorgonzola was brûléed a bit I may have done a backflip.

Four. What Happened?

When all was going well I hit a bit of a snag. My friend ordered the rack of pork to be served with a sweet potato mash and a pear and apple compote. It all seemed promising, the aroma of the warm compote was intoxicating and the sweet potato mash was delicious. The pork, however, was far overdone – even a generous dousing with the syrupy sauce was not enough to save this dry dish.

Five. Signature Meatloaf.

Sometimes I just need some comfort food ,and the meatloaf at the ROI delivered comfort and meatloaf in abundance. The delicious compound of ground beef and rolled oats was incredibly moist. Chef tops the dish with a Jack Daniels sauce, blending sweet and savory and beating anything your mother ever told you meatloaf was.

Would I go back? Yes. There was a stumble, but ultimately The ROI has me curious to come back and try more dishes.

Hit “Save” The ROI, 150 Chestnut St, Providence, 401-272-2161, TheROIProv.com

Want to know more? Follow Sean DeBobes on the Five Things Facebook page, or on Twitter @SeanDeBobes.

By Gail Ciampa

Several restaurants have closed of late, including two that starred in make-over, reality television shows — Downcity Food + Cocktails and Mainelli’s.

Yet quite a few have opened in recent months and even more are in various stages of construction and will open this year. They reflect the hope and dreams of chefs and business people. They are also anxiously anticipated by diners who love something new. Here’s the lineup.

Chef Paul Shire is back in Providence at The Roi, 150 Chestnut St. Some will remember that Shire opened Downcity Diner with Anthony Salemme near the Providence Performing Arts Center in 1990. They had a good run but sold Downcity when Salemme set off to become a massage therapist and Shire opened Oak on Providence’s East Side. After he sold that, he traveled for a while and eventually returned to New England to help his aunt, Boston restaurateur Lydia Shire, open Blue Sky in York, Maine.

Providence has changed a lot since his first restaurant, he observed. He said that back in 1990, when there was an event at PPAC, they would sell out the diner.

“We could see the tumbleweeds going by otherwise,” Shire laughed.

With the same optimism he showed then, he thinks there is great potential for his new spot in the corner of Providence known as the Jewelry District, which is in proximity to the development referred to as the Knowledge District.

“The challenge is to get people to think about this spot for dining,” he said.

The Roi is in the space that was formerly The Century Lounge. Shire’s partner is Paul Roidoulis, who owned Century and is president of Liquid Blue in Lincoln, which makes band and concert shirts, including those for the Grateful Dead. That explains the inspiration for Shire’s tie-dye blue chef coat. ROI stands for return on investment, but Shire said Roidoulis “wants to see people happy here.” And he’s happy to be playing with his band, the New Prophets, on the small stage Sunday nights.

Diners loved Shire’s Downcity Diner homestyle food, especially the meatloaf which is on the Roi menu. The secret of the meatloaf ($15.95): it’s made with quick oats instead of bread crumbs, and Jack Daniel’s gravy.

He has what he calls a grazing menu that includes appetizers of pizza, sausage and peppers and more, and entrees of salmon, pork chops, crab cakes and the signature meatloaf. Shire also talks about using seasonal foods from Farm Fresh.

Paul Shire, who landed on the Providence restaurant scene more than 20 years ago, is in the kitchen again – this time at The ROI, a new supper club beneath the sidewalk in the space where the old Century Lounge used to reside. Shire has many fans who fell in love with his food first at the original DownCity Diner and then at Oak on Hope Street. Shire ended up selling his interest in both those restaurants to take a break and do some traveling. Now, with his batteries fully recharged, he’s cooking again, and the Providence restaurant scene is all the better for it.

I’m slowly working my way through the menu at The ROI, having had lunch and dinner there on several occasions. For appetizers, the best of the bunch is the Polenta Fries ($8.95). Traditional cornmeal polenta is sliced into thick planks, much like steak fries, then fried in olive oil. A stack of these fries is served with a spicy marinara sauce and a generous sprinkle of crumbled Gorgonzola cheese. Somewhat delicate, the larger fries tend to break into pieces. When “the girls” got together for a recent lunch, we politely ate every crumb.

I liked the Pecan-Crusted Chicken Tenders ($9.95), especially when dipped into the tangy blackberry glaze. The Fire Grilled Large Shrimp ($12.95) were drizzled with pesto, and I would have liked a little more for dipping. Every bite had that certain crunch you want in properly cooked shrimp. The Jamaican Jerk Chicken Wings ($8.95) were plump and meaty. The accompanying mango glaze helped to douse the fire on my lips. A friend said that the Pulled Pork & Jack Cheese Quesadilla ($10.95) was greasy, but that was not my experience. The pork is slow cooked, shredded, and mixed with a smoky barbecue sauce. With a bit of the house salsa and some sour cream, it was a Cinco de Mayo party in my mouth.

Another appetizer possibility, if you care to share, is the Margherita Pizza ($12.95). This pie is so good, however, you’ll want the whole thing for yourself. The hand-stretched, fire-grilled pizza shell is topped with simple, classic Italian ingredients: fresh plum tomatoes, shredded fresh mozzarella, and a chiffonade of fresh basil (red, white and green – the colors of the Italian flag). Fresh is the operative word here.

One day at lunch, I thoroughly enjoyed the Seafood Chowder ($4.95) with its unmistakable ocean-fresh taste in every mouthful and the hint of fresh dill. I was told it’s made from scratch with local clams. On the salad side of things, The ROI Salad ($8.95) is a winner with its sweet, tangy and tart com- ponents – a mix of greens with dried cranberries, goat cheese, candied pecans and cider vinaigrette.

That pulled pork (in the quesadilla) makes an encore appearance in the Pulled Pork Sandwich ($10.95), served on ciabatta bread with a side of fries. The French fries are fine, but I recommend upgrading to the Sweet Potato Fries for something special. The fries are all served in cute little metal baskets, miniature versions of what the fries are cooked inside back in the kitchen.

The queen of the sandwiches is the Open Faced Meatloaf ($10.95), which would make the Grilled Filet Sandwich ($12.95) the king. The meatloaf is one of Chef Shire’s signature dishes, dating back to his years at the much-missed DownCity Diner. Shire makes one heck of a meatloaf using all-natural ground beef, rolled oats and his secret seasonings. For the sandwich version, a thick slice of the meatloaf is pan-fried and served open face on house-made focaccia. It is drizzled with gravy spiked with a bit of Jack Daniel’s Kentucky bourbon, then crowned with an abundance of delicate fried onion crisps. As an entrée, two slices of the meatloaf are served along with creamy mashed potatoes and more of that gravy with a kick ($15.95).

Of the two burgers ($9.95 to $10.95) I’ve tried, one was perfectly okay and the other was magnificent. The former was topped with a generous slice of fresh mozzarella, fresh basil and red onions (there’s that Italian flag again). The latter was the Greek Burger, which will always tempt me. This is one of those dishes that I have added to my list of “the best things I ever ate.” The half-pound of ground beef was cooked to a medium state of doneness, as I requested, then topped with an almost ridiculous amount of feta cheese and kalamata olives. I loved every bite. All the burgers are served on Kaiser rolls with fries and a pickle spear.

The most expensive dish on the menu is the Fire-Grilled Choice Filet ($23.99), a beautiful cut of tender, flavorful meat with an herb crust and a Chianti demi glaze. Mashed potatoes complete the plate. Another wonderful main course is the Herbes de Provence Salmon Filet ($18.95), which makes healthy eating so easy. The boneless salmon is encrust- ed with seven herbs and served atop a creamy mushroom risotto with a side of zesty citrus butter.

The dessert menu is pretty straightforward – Apple Crisp, Tiramisu, Chocolate Cake and New York Cheesecake ($5.95 each). The most creative offering is the Cinnamon Maple Bread Pudding, a warm and sweet concoction that blends coffee cake and custard resulting in something like French toast with a walnut topping.

Clearly the food at The ROI is very good – as hip and cool as the décor of this subterranean restaurant. Dark and sexy, The ROI has a long, inviting bar where creative cocktails are a specialty. The tables and chairs, and a few booths, are the color of dark chocolate. Amber sconces and bright red pendant lighting brighten the intimate dining room. An interesting city skyline decorates one wall, while other walls have iridescent panels.

So what is the significance of the name? Shire explains that “ROI” has multiple meanings beginning with “return on investment.” It also stands for the name of Shire’s financial partner, Paul Roidoulis. And it is the French word for “king.” Shire says everyone will be treated like royalty at his new restaurant. Indeed.

C and I actually ended up at the ROI on the wrong night.  We’d intended to go to the Grand Opening on Thursday, but I’d written it on my calendar for Wednesday.  It was a lucky bit of chance that they were open.  We nearly had the place to ourselves, which I don’t expect will be possible in the future.

The service was excellent: attentive and knowledgeable, willing to answer questions and go to find out what she didn’t know.  She was formal and friendly at the same time.

Chef Paul Shire stopped by the table a couple of times.  He’s very enthusiastic about his new place, and even tempted us with a couple of excellent appetizers.

I’m getting ahead of myself.  The meal started with fresh bread (white and raisin nut), still warm from the oven, including grilled pita with a creamy cucumber/dill dip.

I was quite excited to see pecan crusted chicken fingers on the appetizers menu, since it’s a particular favorite of mine.  C and I split an order.

The chicken fingers were fresh and very tender.  They were more bland than I’d hoped, with the pecan ground very fine and hard to make out in the rest of the coating.  The blackberry glaze, though, was a nice accompaniment.

Chef stopped by with another couple of hors d’ouevres for us to try.

The grilled mozzarella was delicious.  So much fresher and creamier than the typical mozzarella sticks. It was served over a fresh marinara of plum tomatoes and fresh basil that really brought out the flavor of both. C said it tasted like homemade.

The photo of the other appetizer – fire-grilled large shrimp with pesto – didn’t come out.  But they were delicious, just the same.

For dinner, C ordered the signature meatloaf with mashed potatoes and Jack Daniels gravy.

Normally she prefers a beef-based gravy, but she enjoyed the Jack Daniels gravy and didn’t feel that it overpowered the meatloaf.  She liked the consistency of the meatloaf, feeling it was neither too crumbly nor too gummy.

She liked that the mashed potatoes had the skins of the red potatoes left on. I tried both, and the potatoes were creamy delicious.  The meatloaf had a good flavor, and it appeared that it had been sliced and then cooked.  Bear also tried both (we brought home leftovers).  She devoured the mashed potatoes in an instant and asked for more.  For Bear, the meatloaf went more slowly, but she enjoyed it just the same.

I tried the ROI salad, which is spinach with pecans, dried cranberries, goat cheese and cider vinaigrette.

It was delicious.  Whole pecans and spinach added crunch, the cranberries and goat cheese added tartness and chewiness.  A perfect combination.  When C and I switched plates so we could try each others’ meals, I had a hard time getting my salad back.

The portion sizes were perfect: neither skimpy nor oversized.

The atmosphere was also very nice.  There’s a stage for live music, nice lighting and some interesting architectural features, including an old elevator door that used to be used in the building.

I just love the mural on the back wall. I didn’t get a picture of it, and have to swipe one from ROI’s site, but it makes a great impact.